Amy Powney's Mother of Pearl girl may be pretty but she's also tough and independent. For Resort 2017 flowers and frills maintain her enduring charm, yet where she may have been innocent with a sporty androgyny, this season she reveals her strong individualism.
Looking back at the time of her own teenage years, Powney poured over the 1990's fashion photographs by Mark Borthwick and found her first muse in his androgynous, hard edged, sporty girl - Stella Tennent at her most raw.
For the softerside of the collection Powney looked at Victorian boarding schools where she referenced ginghams and uniforms and in particular the frills, bows and ruffles of their night gowns. She looked to the groups of girls from films such as Picnic at Hanging Rock and The Virgin Suicides, and in particular The Magdoline Sisters. The feisty, loyal and determined character of the heroine Margaret, wearing her uniforms of overalls and smocks in loose silhouettes, enabled Powney to develop the perfect mix of masculine and feminine. Powney then went on to build the sporty aesthetic from P.E kits and vintage athletic wear.
Charms and pearls are scattered throughout the collection inspired by teenage girls' keep sakes and treasures. Prints evolved from the 'Dear Diary' tradition and graffitied desks from Powney's own school days. Ultimately the Mother of Pearl Resort 2017 collection shows a subtly subversive girl with an innate sense of freedom.